What qualities* make one pearl more valued than another?
Size: Size speaks
for itself; larger simply is more valuable, all other things being equal.
Shape: Round is
the rarest and is the most valuable. After that, off-round, oval, drop, buttons,
coins, freeform are an example of the progression of the shape. The further
from round the lower the value.
GIA classifies shapes into 3 categories: spherical, symmetrical & baroque.
Spherical
pearls - Round or near round.
Symmetrical - Pearls
that look the same on each side if you divided them in half.
Baroque - Irregularly
shaped pearls such as crosses & sticks.
Color: White is
the universal color. In Asia & the USA pink-white is the ultimate. Other
favored natural colors are pink, golden pink, lavender, purple, black, etc.
Many pearls are enhanced with dyes, irradiation and other treatments. Dyed
pearls have a lesser value than those with natural colors.
GIA classifies pearl
color as having 3 characteristics:
Body
color - The dominant overall color of a pearl.
Overtone - One
or more translucent colors that appear over a pearl's body color.
Orient - Iridescent,
rainbow colors shimmering on or just below a pearl's surface.
Luster - This is
the most important quality in evaluating the beauty of a pearl. The iridescence,
the life of the pearl, the shimmer, glow, and the luminosity of the pearl all
come together here. Luster is closely related to orient. GIA has 4 categories
for luster:
Excellent -
reflections are bright and pinpoint sharp
Good -
reflections are bright but not as sharp, slightly matte finish
Fair -
reflections are hazy and blurred
Poor -
reflections are diffused and appear chalky and dull
Surface
quality -
Evenness of the surface, with no undulating undercurrents to distract the eye. GIA classifies this
into 4 categories:
Nacre
quality - Interrelated
with the other two. Thickness & quality of nacre are selling points for
freshwater pearls. The quality ranges from acceptable to chalky.
Matching - A brilliant
matching pair is more difficult find than a single gem. Look for overall uniformity
in color, shape, finish etc. in a strand or suite.
Uniqueness - This
can be any unusual combination of the forgoing factors.
Provenance - Previous
ownership, from fame to notoriety enhances the value of a pearl. It is the
legacy of the pearls detailing its journey from the past to the present. Provenance
is related to Branding.
* These qualities apply to all natural
and cultivated pearls.
Bibliography
Akamatsu,
Shigeru, Zansheng, Li Tajima, Moses, Thomas M., & Scarratt, Kenneth, "The
Current Status of Chinese Freshwater Cultured Pearls", pp.96-113,
Gems & Gemology, Summer 2001, Volume XXXVII. GIA, Carlsbad, CA 92008
GIA
Course on Pearls, Carlsbad, CA 92008, 1999
Joyce,
Kristin & Addison, Shellei, Pearls, Ornament & Obsession, Simon & Schuster,
New York, NY 10020, 1999
Landman,
Neil H., Mikkelsen, Paula M., Bieler, Rudiger & Bronson, Bennet, Pearls:
A Natural History, Harry N Abrams, Inc. in association with The American
Museum of Natural History & The Field Museum, New York, NY, 2001